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I find this master cylinder makes a clean looking alternative than the cast iron MS and will bolt to the firewall using factory holes. I also used my original push rod and rubber boot. The master cylinder has metric fittings. I used 1(one) 3/16 X 12 adapter for the back line and 2(two) 3/16 X 10 for the front lines. I had to purchase a 20" pre fabricated hard brake line to run to the front of the master cylinder port to the proportioning valve and bent my rear brake line to the proportioning valve. I also had to bend the original front brake lines to their new locations. I replaced the rubber bumper on the pedal support with a late model '70's F-150 brake light switch.
A note on the metric adapters I went to a quite a few part house's to find an adapter that was made without loose threads. Some had a lot of "play" that was noticed when the hard lines was screwed half way on. This caused the connection to leak. If you run into problem find another adapter manufacture. This loose fit would not be noticed when the brake line is bottom out into the fitting, but it WILL leak! Kinda funny, one place had the right size for one fitting but the other fitting would have a poor fit. When I went to another supplier the other fitting was junk. I ending up buying from two different auto part stores.
From the repair manual, The master
cylinder is located under the hood, mounted to the power brake booster, and is
best recognized by the large fluid reservoir on top. The removable plastic
reservoir is partitioned to prevent total fluid loss in the event of a front or
rear brake hydraulic system failure.
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